GAZ 66 front axle (problem resolved)

[Abrs]

I hate to be rude by asking but how much did RM charge for you the pleasure if you don't mind telling, totally understand if you don't want to answer this one

[Bimblebox]

So, the right-hand side is back together ok.

The left-hand side is currently apart.

The outer bearing is shagged. I'm not sure about the inner bearing, because the hub is full of emulsified grease.

The inner bearing (GPZ 7515 75 ID, 130 OD, 33.25 thick) has a direct SKF or Timken part number of 32215

The outer bearing (GPZ 807813 65 ID, 100 OD, 30.5 thick) doesn't seem to have an equivalent stocked in the UK.

I can get both from the Netherlands as the GPZ parts, but not until too late to get the truck ready for the Isle of Wight on the 18th.


Does anyone know what bearings the rear hubs use?

Does anyone have any hub seals?

These, and more questions are born out of frustration. So near, and yet so far...

[Rob Reznik]

Pm Jamie but not sure if he's in the Country - pretty sure he had some bearings and seals from me. I think i also gave some to the guy who bought my project Gaz off me - they may well be where you bought your axle from?

[acmatman]

I think Jamie might be in Jordon or Kurdistan

[Bimblebox]

Today's update...

As yet, only one outer bearing has actually arrived, but all the others are on the way...
The front left corner is stripped out, cleaned and ready for the new bearings. The outer bearing race is fitted.

I'm going to pull the rear halfshafts tonight (if the rain lets up a bit) and clean them up. It needs to be done and it will save time later.
I've also cut plenty of drive flange gaskets in advance.

Onwards and upwards...

[Calfdozer99]

Have just pumped a load of 80w90 mixed 50 50 with lm grease into my front hubs. Don't fancy parting company with those hubs. Was meaning to get around to it as has been a year since last done and have taken it swimming since. It was a timely reminder.
Cheers
John

The hub oil mix only lubes the cv joint and taper bearings in the knuckle housing.
For wheel bearings it is necessary to remove the brake drum and apply 0.75kg of grease, it's in the service interval somewhere..

I did mine a while ago with the use of my Zoltan grade box spanner, flippin easy job too if ya leave the wheel bolted to the hub.

[Abrs]

It shouldn't matter too much either way, personally I prefer oil only filled hubs over grease, the reason being it's easier to service and inspecting the oil that's drained out during a service can give you an insight as to what's going on internally without the need to strip it down, further to this point you are actually more likely to notice a problem with an oil filled hub due to the fact it will begin to leak oil if excessive wear takes place, the metal floating around in the oil will quite quickly degrade the seal to the point were it will weep oil, it gives you a tell tail sign that there's a problem that needs investigating, this is not the case with grease packed hubs.

[Calfdozer99]

Oil only hubs with Russian seals would only result in not being able to keep the level high enough long enough to feed the bearings.
I prefer hubs done with that blue sapphire grease as its not all ejected at once when a seal fails.

[Grommet1]

Not familiar with the blue sapphire. The oil grease mix seems a reasonable compromise that won't pour out through the seal but enough flow to give warning leak before fails completely. Plus I have plenty in the garage as I got a big tub of 80w90 originally for the axles before I changed to using iso 460 oil.

Have looked at hub diagram and see what you mean Scott about just undoing the bolt and taking whole lot off. Bit heavy with hub and drum attached too though. Have just finished changing the tyres using the you tube angle iron and sledge technique and couldn't lift a paper bag right now :-D

[Calfdozer99]

You'll be whacking stuff in your sleep!
I use the same oil mix as you in the cv/knuckle and blue grease in the wheel bearings as our trucks being CTIS equipped means that the cv and wheel bearings are separately sealed from each other..

Blue grease - https://www.rocol.com/products/sapphire ... ing-grease

Also the english manual shows non-ctis hub with the freewheeling bolt mech..

I will send you a pic of the ctis type from a Hungarian manual I have ..

[Bimblebox]

Have just finished changing the tyres using the you tube angle iron and sledge technique and couldn't lift a paper bag right now :-D

I've just bought one of these:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeWlA9PWmCQ

I haven't tried to use it yet, though ;)

[zoltan]

Have just finished changing the tyres using the you tube angle iron and sledge technique and couldn't lift a paper bag right now :-D

I've just bought one of these:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeWlA9PWmCQ

I haven't tried to use it yet, though ;)

I have one of these Andy, works well. Standard bolt is sh1t though, use a HT cap screw. Also the finger that pushes the bead isn't that strong and could do with a weld gusset, especially if your tyres have been on for ages and have the bead rusted into the rim

[Calfdozer99]

Have just finished changing the tyres using the you tube angle iron and sledge technique and couldn't lift a paper bag right now :-D

I've just bought one of these:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeWlA9PWmCQ

I haven't tried to use it yet, though ;)

I have one of these Andy, works well. Standard bolt is sh1t though, use a HT cap screw. Also the finger that pushes the bead isn't that strong and could do with a weld gusset, especially if your tyres have been on for ages and have the bead rusted into the rim

I thought these were ok for standard type rims but how will it fair with bolt type rims with the creeper bands in ? As its trying to do exactly what the creeper band is designed to prevent?

[Bimblebox]

The steel band would make it very hard to break the bead by forcing the tyre inwards.
I reckoned that this type of tool should work well because it will pull the rim part out away from the bead.

[Bimblebox]

Four wheels on my wagon

All hub bearings replaced.

5 parts-worn Stomils arrive tomorrow, 2 on rims. I'll check them at pressure before they get used...

[Grommet1]

After the adventure I had today after changing my cracked Stomils for some part worn Romanian K58 tyres, with no cracks, i wish I'd left the Stomils on! That's another story but after 2 spectacular blowouts in succession, the second on the motorway, I'll be looking at new tyres and some custom made rims for locally available tyres! Fortunately I bunged an old Stomil and an inner tube Colin gave me in the back. It meant changing tyre and tube off the rim by the side of the motorway. Fun times! Managed to limp home though. Not quite as scary as a wheel falling off though Bimblebox
Cheers
John

[Rob Reznik]

I think the best (although most expensive way) is to do what Colin did and have some made. I had a look at most rims available with the same pcd as the Gaz, and the closest were the Unimog rims which go up to 20" - close but not exact. I would definitely go for 20" there is such a big choice in tyres for that size - just make sure you get the gearing right re the tyres as they will sit taller unless you get lower profile ones - as long as you have enough power they may give you a bit more economy on a run.

[Calfdozer99]

Just done a spot of research on these part worn K58 tyres and have come across a possible reason for their short lived second life ..

http://youtu.be/3L4GlQoyJHw

Surely that has damaged and tore the plies?

[zoltan]

No way of knowing is there?

We ought to split this tyre discussion off as a separate thread because it's an important one in its own right. I'll do it when I get back on a pc

[Bimblebox]

http://youtu.be/3L4GlQoyJHw

Well, that's one way of doing it!

Right, I'd best head in to work to clear up after last night's final push and to see what the Polish courier has delivered...