Removing Ural 4320 brake drum?

[Mark Preston]

Ok, so continuing on.

Pull out the stub axle,
Knock back the lock washer tab.
Remove the locking nut
Remove the wheel bearing retaining nut??

Really? You have to remove the wheel bearings to get at the brakes?

Presuming that the above is true..

after removing the bearing retaining nut the hub just slides out?

then I can get to the brakes and see where the fluid is coming from - hopefully.

I suppose that this is a good opportunity to wash out the bearings and check their condition.

Is there a recommended spec on the grease to put back and how much?

[Gustav]

Shell Gadus S2 V100 3 or similar for wheel bearings 0.85 kg per wheel

mixture 50 % Shell Gadus S2 V100 3 or similar + 50 % gear oil GL4 90 for steering knuckle 3 kg per wheel

[Calfdozer99]

Hello Mark,
It's not so unusual, a modern Land rover defender requires hub removal just to change the front brake discs..

You may find it useful to put down a clean tray and lay the washers and bearings down in order to aid the rebuild.
Remember to wash out brake dust and debris instead of blowing out as I would imagine there is quite a assy content .

Wash your bearings in a bowl of yellow parrafin if ain't got access to a parts washer.

Scott

[Mark Preston]

Well that shows what I know!

I think I now have all the info and just need to get on with it.

Thanks to EVERYONE who has put time into this - much appreciated.

I'll take plenty of pictures and post back

Regards

Mark

[Abrs]

It's quite a good idea making it disassemble like that, it dose mean you only need to undo one or two large nuts and a few small bolts instead if fighting with a load of rather tight wheel nuts, it also means the wheel bearings are more likely to get attention once and a while, the only real down side is you will have to be careful not to damage the fine thread that holds the hub on when taking it apart or reassembling, but then it's no worse than many large trailer axles in that respect.

[Mark Preston]

Well I see your point - however I had already taken the wheel off as I didn't presume that I would be disassembling the hub.

It also means that you have to re-torque the bearings on reassembly and then go for a drive to verify that they are tightened correctly.

I know, I am making a fuss over this, but the bearings are so beautifully clean and lubed up it seems such a shame to have to start over.

It's no biggie - I should have a go this weekend.

Thanks again

Mark

[Mark Preston]

Really making progress with this now.

It's all in pieces. Wow, what a mess it is inside there too. No wonder it didn't brake in a straight line!

A nasty combination of brake fluid, grease and oil. There is loads of meat left on the pads but I guess they are wreckage after sitting in that lot for the longest. That's not the greatest concern.

The brake fluid leak is pretty obvious - I just need a wheel cylinder repair kit - I'm pretty confident about that.

The oil and grease is getting in there past the last seal of the hub assembly

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xy0n61ohaj2d4 ... 0.jpg?dl=0

Is that parts 12 and 13 on Duncan's diagram?

http://i.imgur.com/k4Bapwv.jpg

If so then I can get some parts on order.

Cheers

Mark

[duncan]

I would say only 12, the sealing ring. Part 13 looks to be a protective metal housing, which is still in good condition on your photo. The sealing ring should have the size on it, most likely a standard size available in any shop (assuming shops on your island stock metric ). Depending on what else you need, many of these parts are so universal you can get them in any well assorted shop, which brings the advantage of being (fairly) sure you get modern rubber and not some old stock from the cold war.

[Gustav]

Good video manual

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UuO8wlEbV8

channel is good for URAL owners