BRDM 2 Cyl head SEAL replacement

[SMarvin]

Hey guys! I was working on my brdm today changing to new sparkplugs and also repaired a burned part of the electrical system. After the final startup it ran alot better but after checking the spark plugs i noticed that unfortunatly it had glycol in 1 of the cylinders.. the one on commander side closest to the fighting compartment. Anyone ever changed a head seal on these and how much do i need to dissasemble to get the head away? should i change both at the same time?? Any help is appriciated

[wyvernfyre]

you need to talk with Potemkin. A group of us changed the head gaskets, not easy the cylinder sleeve are not fixed so you have to be careful not to break the seal at the bottom that was 2015-6. There were other things wrong and the petrol engine failed at W&P 2016. So we fitted a 6 cylinder diesel with a six speed box and 180 bhp over the winter and it will be at W&P 2017.

[SMarvin]

Ah i see. well is this Potemkin here on the forum? I will try to fix the stock engine for now i want to use it for events this summer so im quite a hurry :/ I can get the parts but experience about the engine and the work to change the seal is well appriciated Thanks for the support

[wyvernfyre]

James (Potemkin) is one of the Trapper guys. They have imported a number of BRDMs over the years. Two have been fitted with diesels engine. James got the head gaskets, I am unsure if he had them made in the uk of bought them in aboard

[wyvernfyre]

Have you found the BRDM manual in the download section?

[SMarvin]

Yes i downloaded the manual And i also have gaskets from Poland. i am selling UAZ and parts in sweden so i have good contact with poland for most parts but i dont have any skills in these engines yet so i really need help with the work itself Do you know if you can dismantle 1 head without anything else or do i need to take of intake, carb etc to access the head?

[wyvernfyre]

I remember we had to take off a lot of bits to get to the heads. it took a number of days, We had to have the heads skimmed before they went back on

http://s378.photobucket.com/user/wyvern ... eshow/BRDM

I have emails James who knows a lot more than i do.

[Grommet1]

I can't find details on the engine but am guessing it's similar to the Gaz 66 4.3 litre v8 petrol.
If so you need to remove the power steering pump, air compresdor if it has one, distributor, inlet and exhaust manifolds and cams, push rodsand coolant pipes. Your choice whether to do both. I think purists would recommend both and skim the same off each. Am no expert on that so take advice from those with more experience.
I think I posted some pics when I did mine.
It's a bit of a job if you've never done it before. Be careful toquing down the heads. Use a torque wrench and do the bolts in the correct order. You may encounter problems with corroded head bolts.

Cheers
John

Ps I posted details under Blown Head Gaskets thread on gaz trucks section

[SMarvin]

Thanks alot guys for the help I ordered a complete seal kit for this engine so hopefully i got all i need to it. Will try to check all other parts on the go then so hopefully i wont have to do anything else than this rebuild. Is this a common problem in the brdm? What brand of engines do you usually swap to?

[Grommet1]

I've uploaded some pics to my photobucket I took of the heads etc which I took at the time. I'd recommend setting the no 1 piston on right bank at front at top dead centre and if you can lock the flywheel by making up something to jam the teeth of the flywheel then you don't run the risk of dislodging the cylinder liners once the head is off. If you turn the crank the pistons can push the liners out. They have a copper crush gasket underneath which stops water getting into the sump. They aren't in the head gasket kit so best not disturb them.
Also all gasket kits aren't equal! Mine was missing the exhaust manifold gaskets and o rings to the down pipes.
Don't overtighten the inlet manifold bolts on to the neoprene gasket.
Cracks in the head stud holes in the block are not uncommon. I repaired mine with jb weld and hermetite to prevent coolant going up around the stud and out through the head bolt. If you have cracks the head nut will probably be tight to remove and the whole stud my come out or the head will take a lot of wiggling to get it off the stud. Studs are designed to stretch and in an ideal world you're supposed to fit new but my feeling is you'll risk cracking the holes trying to replace them.
Be careful removing the head not to damage the face against the gaskets. They come off reasonably easily unlike Jag heads!
Mark the distributor position before removing it.
If you don't loosen off the tappets when removing the cams you risk bending the cam when undoing it. Undo the bolts bit by bit in rotation.
The original gaskets came off fairly easily on mine. I used a paint scraper which isn't too sharp to clean off the bits of gasket on the block. Take care not to loosen up the cylinder liners as best you can.
There's a fair chance you'll end up having to replace some corroded exhaust manifold studs. If you're nervous of this get it done by the people skimming the head. They're an unusual length and thread.

Cheers
John

[Grommet1]

That's all assuming is same as Gaz66. Yes you also have to remove the carb.

[Grommet1]

My gasket kit came from Tarmot. I see you work with them. If it's same set for your engine that was the one which didn't have the gaskets mentioned above and also the waterpump cover gasket was wrong and missing a section of the gasket so I ended up making my own. Not having a go at Tarmot as they've been a useful supplier but just suggesting checking before you start the job.
Best wishes
John

[Potemkin]

Hi,

Just got back with a load of Ural bits from the Baltics.

Well the BRDM 2 uses the GAZ 41 engine which is very similar to the ZMZ gaz 66 but not the same, It is more akin to the Chaika engine. The head gaskets are one of a kind and we have had them made over here last time we did them. The rest of the engine gaskets are the same fortunately.
The head gasket is the achilles heal of this engine and often the brdms that come out of service to be sold are the ones with defective steering or overheating problems.

My advice is to do both of them and have a little skimmed from the heads. It is a long job to take it all apart and put it back together again especially as you have to torque the gasket, set up all the valve train clearances, run it and then have to strip off the valve gear in order to re torque the bolts and then set all the valve gear back up, it's not difficult just cramped and unpleasant. The cylinders are liners which are usually corroded in but in case they are not, be careful not to disturb them.

We did a lot or research on engine sizes and dimensions all those years ago and finally chose the 4 cylinder iveco eurocargo turbodiesel engine and gearbox (pre tector), these with some cutting and reshaping of the floor fit quite well once done but are very hard to find in good condition with all the ancillaries needed now days. The last one we did recently we used the 6 cylinder version which is harder to fit ( takes us about 200 hours to get everything fitted converted and working). The Ukrainians have copied and improved our design since then and the Polish military use the 6 cylinder engine as well now.

[Grommet1]

You can use this to link to my Gaz 66 pics. Agree with Potemkin that you have to re do the torquing of the bolts and reset the clearances again after running it. The torque had changed significantly after running it.

[[RA]FW200]

Replaced the head gasket on mine as well.. Twice actually. We did it while in the vehicle the first time but it seems the copper seals at the bottom had weakened too much so it all went a bit wrong later..

Then we removed the entire engine from the vehicle and did it again.. We allready had the head skimmed the first time so we didn't do that the second time. The engine came out in ~2 days (1 day of removing everything around it, 1 day of removing it), the day after that it was ready to be installed and the day after that it ran again.. It took another day to get everything bolted back up so it takes about a week in total if you want to take the engine out..

I got the proper BRDM-2 headgaskets from kesovagora on ebay along with a set of GAZ66 gaskets (for the smaller parts) and the proper copper gaskets. He still has the BRDM-2 ones.

There is a guy in the Netherlands with about ~25 ZMZ-41 naval engines (same basic block, just different ancillaries) which he sells.. Both in used and still cosmolined new in crate condition ones..

[portamurda1]

Hi,
We did a lot or research on engine sizes and dimensions all those years ago and finally chose the 4 cylinder iveco eurocargo turbodiesel engine and gearbox (pre tector), these with some cutting and reshaping of the floor fit quite well once done but are very hard to find in good condition with all the ancillaries needed now days. The last one we did recently we used the 6 cylinder version which is harder to fit ( takes us about 200 hours to get everything fitted converted and working). The Ukrainians have copied and improved our design since then and the Polish military use the 6 cylinder engine as well now.

The Polish and Croatians replace a lot of their gear with Iveco engines and boxes
One thing to be aware of is their height, I've measured up to fit a four pot daily engine in a 452, it will fit nicely but cover will need raising, ready for when I can get my hands on one that isn't a rust bucket or far too expensive

[SMarvin]

Hello guys! Thanks for all your interest and the help i am waiting for the parts to arrive this week and then i will use all the advice and start the work I will keep you posted as much as i can but right now it alot of work to finish for me so not so much time at the forum :/ Thanks again!!

[Gustav]

Please see ZMZ 502 ( later version of ZMZ 41 ) disassemby . Both used ZMZ13 Chaika engine cylinder block .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YgI5GG_9XBA
ZMZ 502 engine was originally designed for power station - but there was also naval conversion for DDR board guard boat GSB 075 (both types zmz 41 and zmz 502 )
http://www.ddr-binnenschifffahrt.de/fot ... en-001.JPG


GAZ 66 with ZMZ 41
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GKPadgNk8B4

GAZ 66 with ZMZ 502
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P_kjBw6S4RU&t=52s

[SMarvin]

Hello guys! Sometimes you just wanna give up all engines and vehicles and become a herbalist or something... I have now for the second time assembled the engine back together but as soon as i start filling up coolant it goes straight into the engine itself.. this second time i already drained all fluids but left the oilplug open. and after 10litres of water it start (Not dripping) but pouring water out of the oilplug... i cant understand what im doing wrong.. The leak must be from the intake. New rubber gaskets.. i also use special seal silicone glue (gasket replacement) together with brand new rubber seals but it still POURS through it.. its like im not using a seal at all.. my only theory is that the silicone seal makes the rubber one slippery causing it to slide away from where its supposed to be and thus creating big leaks..

Cylinderheads was ok thought.. new seal is installed and everything else is good.. now i just have to work on that intake.. what i cant understand is that these seals are rubber and about 2mm thick.. when i screw the intake inplace they get compressed about 1mm evenly all over so there shouldnt even be possible to have a leak..
But its probably some beginners error.. please enlighten me..

[Gustav]

intake manifold :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZOrqdVyIcY
Standard ZMZ V8 assembly
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmHUdfIN0G8