CV joint

[Gareth]

Had a weekend away in the truck, in the middle of nowhere. We did approx 500kms and all was well. The end of the return journey involved a tight turned into a housing estae, CRACK; CRACK; CRACK came from the front right hand wheels. I checked the tightness of the front wheel and it was OK. I then removed the CV joint/half shaft and the CV joint is well greased but very stiff to operate and it seems to jam depending on the position of the axle with regards to length. There is the tiniest bit of wear but nothing much.
Any ideas?
It sounded CV but I dont want to order one just yet.
In the joint there is a ball bearing with a hole and pin. Does this have a spring? The ball seems to just float and depending on it´s position affects the CV operation.

Another question on tyres, BTR K58, K70 or Stomils. Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance

[Potemkin]

The manual doesn't show a spring.

My Ural used to do that sometimes when the front axle was tilted and turning off road. It sounded awful but I couldnt find what it was

[portamurda1]

It does sound like a cv joint and can exhibit the wear/stiffness that you describe....mainly due to uneven wear that builds up as ‘flat spots’ develop. When they do develop, they naturally ‘favour’ that spot and excaserbate the wear...
As an aside
I’ve often heard the arguments for UJs being better as they’re more agricultural BUT agri has been using CV joints for donkeys years...the only real issue is split boots, but you can drive with a disconnected cv, you can’t with a bust UJ without removing the whole

[Gareth]

I have been playing with the driveshaft for a little while out of the axle and it is really stiff in places. The truck has always had a ´tyre flat spot´feel to it which goes after a short distance. I am guessing this was the signs of a stiff cv.
I have ordered a new one from Todor, Russiann Spares and at the same time 4 K70s. This will give me a few good tyres as spares. The old spare had a few years behind it! New rubber is always better.

[Grommet1]

If i do a tight turn i get a judder. Colin told me he gets the same. I wondered if it's due to self locking of the diff but can't remember if the front axle has it too

[portamurda1]

If i do a tight turn i get a judder. Colin told me he gets the same. I wondered if it's due to self locking of the diff but can't remember if the front axle has it too

I get that on full lock on my Cherokee XJ but only in 2wd or 4wd low locked diff...it never does it on full time 4x4, all the committed US lot recommend swapping out the uj’s for cvj’s and getting armoured boots

[Gareth]

Well I replaced the long shaft with a new/old stock. Very quickly delivered along with 4 new tyres and a few gaskets by Todor (Russian Spares).
The first drive for a while always gave the feeling of a flat spot on the tyre, this is almost gone. I drove 45 mins then a really steep sequence of hairpins on the limit for a single bite. Bang bang bang, the same as before! 2 days later driving down the same hairpins nothing!? The truck was in rear wheel drive
I have stripped the front axle completely and stripped the diff. Everything is perfect with no wear.
I now presume on the tight hairpins (asphalt) it is the diff lock engaging and fighting. The noise is shocking and sounds like the axle is being hit with a sledge hammer.I cannot explain the difference with uphill and downhil though.

Any suggestions?I will rebuild the axle soon. I did have a thought about 1 or both wheels being lose and giving the noise although they feel tight. I have not got a torque setting for them just 2 white knuckles and a grimace

[Grommet1]

I put mine down to the cams locking the diff due to the sharp turn and different wheel speed. It's got no worse over 18000km so i just try to avoid the tight turns on full throttle from standstill.

[Gareth]

Thanks for that, I will reasemble it and put it down to ´standard with that model,sir