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one thing i should add-its notoriously difficult to do a wet test on a sidevalve ~X( cos of the layout of the engine its very difficult to get oil to actually where its needed[around the edge of the piston crown]-much easier on ohv engines.have done it by filling a rubber tube with oil and working i...

compression tests on sidevalves-anything over 100 is good!actually not normal!-tests can be confusing as must be done very precisely to get uniform accurate results. always nail throttle wide open before each test-try it hot and cold-and finally try it with a drop of oil in the bores as well.the hig...

lucky to get it passed-most mot testers fail welded air tanks automatically unless its been done by ticketed welder and been tested!

stud extractors high risk-they are brittle and often break then you really got problems-all the agri engineers i know use star drive bits instead and they work very well.

most sidevalves use grade 5 or 6 for head bolts/studs.high compression beasties probably grade 8 or an alloy version of grade 8 that is even stronger.8 probably way in excess of what you need.last ford v8 sidevalve i did had grade 6 in it from new.

my gaz one petrol!-and got it working

if you drill a hole down centre[ish] of stud-then just mig a tiny line of weld round the remaining rim it will just spin out effortlessly-the weld shrinks the stud :D .if one has engaged brain one will drill the hole size to just be a smidgim smaller than a suitable sized star bit[or torx] depending...

ural back on the road-all taxed and tested etc :D .for first time in its life it got put on a rolling road to test the brakes :-o .passed but caused chaos cos knobbly tyres didn't like it and it kept spitting the bike off :)) .just running it in as still pretty tight but give it a whiff of throttle ...

been pulled by vosa on several occasions and they could not find fault in my gaz 66 being mot exempt.even been photographed all round and deferred to head office but all they could say was -we would prefer it if it was mot'd -i declined their nice offer and now they leave me alone.

rivets allow some movement when off roading with lotsa chassis flex-when welds would crack!

be somewhat wary if ordering from ukraine-delivery times gone from approx two weeks to at least six-depending on where you order from in ukraine.lots of their post/parcels go via russia and russian customs not playing the game for parcels to the west.will sit there for at least a month at the moment...

nikwax do a spray for pvc/synthetic .think its called tent and gear waterproofer.HERSELF used it to good effect on some synthetic horse rugs

could possibly be tempted to sell my gaz .definitely not got a high box on it -tipper at moment but still have its box but its a low one.

forgot to add-uaz gets giddy over the ripples/wasboard because it got very soft springs-unlike a landrover with very stiff ones which is why lr's better over that sort of terrain-nothing to do with the shocks-in fact on most old series lr's the shocks can be completely dead and most drivers[and mot ...

make sure you match coil type to ballast resistor[round thing on side of engine cover by your right knee when assuming the driving position.]if both wires go to one terminal its bypassed and should have a 12v coil but if wire to each terminal then should be operational and need a 'nominal' 6 volt co...

most landrover type shocks only single acting too-as are the vast majority of shocks so i wouldn't worry overly about it.

you say the problem is universal to either fuel?if so fuel is very unlikely to be the culprit-so have to look elsewhere-leaking inlet manifold a big contender-or electrics-in others words sparks etc.a tired coil could do it.gives good spark when plug out of head and no pressure on it but dies under ...

spot on -advance it till it just pinks on your favourite big hill and then back it off a smidgim until it stops and spot on

definitely tweak till it purrs rather than slavishly looking at timing marks -that have absolutely no relevance with modern fuel,unless of course you have some 70ish octane lying around

p.s.-as rob says -do check all fuel filters.one in each tank,water catching one on passenger side chassis rail at back of cab.fine filter normally bolted on around compressor and final really fine one on fuel inlet of carb.check for fuel height in carbs by looking at front of carb sightglass.fuel sh...